Abbaye de Sainte-Maried de Frontfroide

Abbeys are scattered through the Languedoc Roussillon area reflecting the influence of the Catholic Church for many centuries. One of the oldest and best maintained Abbeys is Abbaye de Sainte-Maried de Frontfroide. It is located just north of Narbonne and was built in 1093-1145. When you enter the abbey you become astounded at the beauty of the arched celings and constructed pillars. The monks were supposed to maintain a life of abstinence, but as you listen to the history about the life of the monks who resided in the abbey; you hear stories about all the labourers who supported the monistatic lifestyle of good food, good wine and other luxuries.

Uzes and Place Aux Herbes

The Place Aux Herbes, in Uzes is a perfect place to lunch. Restaurants are scattered in every opening of the plaza with Plane trees forming a shady canopy over the tables provided by the restaurants. When the French eat; all the world comes to a stop. During the hours from 12 to 2 or 3 in the afternoon; all stores; museums and small markets close. Everyone gathers for the enjoyment of being in the company of friends while they enjoy good food and a glass of wine. In the background a fountain provides a dramatic enhancement to the courtyard.

Vacation Rentals in Languedoc Roussillon Southern France:
Perpignan, Haut Languedoc National Park, Vernet les Bains, St Pierre de la Mer, Uzes, Carcassonne, Prades, Pezenas

Pont du Gard

The Pont du Gard is a historical roman aqueduct whose construction began in the first century AD to channal water from the Gardon River near Uzes down towards Nimes. The aqueduct stretches dramatically over the Gardon River and a crosswalk has been constructed at the first level of the bridge providing dramatic views over the river towards the next village.

Surrounding the bridge is a natural open area that has not been developed. You can walk along the river to get additional views. When the sun falls upon the bridge it turns a beautiful ochre color: Visiting the aqueduct is like walking through a beautiful park.

Vacation Rentals in Languedoc Roussillon Southern France:Perpignan, Haut Languedoc National Park, Vernet les Bains, St Pierre de la Mer, Uzes, Carcassonne, Prades, Pezenas, Montpellier

Fortress of Salses

Further inland but still near the city of Perpignan is Salses; a huge fortress that was built in 1497 and 1504 by the King of Aragon, to protect his region against France. As the art of war advanced during the 15th century, the fortress became unable to withstand invasions that utilized metal ball artillery. The fortress was continually attacked by the french until 1642 when it became french property.

A9; the major highway that stretches along the coast of Languedoc Roussillan; runs within close proximity of Salses; causing a major culture contast. But when you get to the fortress, the influence of the ouside retreats as you are amazed at the massiveness of the fortress. It sits in an open meadow unprotected by fences or gates. However, access to the interior is restricted to guided tours by the French governenment.

Vacation Rentals in Languedoc Roussillon Southern France:Perpignan, Haut Languedoc National Park, Vernet les Bains, St Pierre de la Mer, Uzes, Carcassonne, Prades, Pezenas, Montpellier

Cathare Castles

The Cathare castles form a circle around the mountains in Fenouillèdes, west of Perpignan. As you drive around the wine region, you continually catch a glimpse of the castles off in the horizon. Perched high atop the mountains, they keep watch over the valleys, always protecting their domain. Today the castles are ghosts; only the faint image of their previous presence remains. They dot the sky, clouds weave in and out of their fortress walls but only a whisper of their previous majesty remains. The Cathares placed their castles strategically along various mountains to maximize their view throughout the mountain valleys and protect against potential invaders. They practiced a Christian religion that did not pay homage to the Pope and because of their independence, the Pope declared war on the Cathares. During the 1300s, the Cathares were destroyed along with their religion. Today their fierce determination and independence represent the Roussillon spirit. Some of the main castles in the Fenouillèdes are: Quéribus, Puilaurens, and Peyrepertuse. To view the castles you can take a road just outside Maury off of Hwy D117. You can view two of the castles, Peyrepertuse and Quéribus, then drive further west on D117 to Lapradelle and you will see Puilaurens.

Vacation Rentals in Languedoc Roussillon Southern France:Perpignan, Haut Languedoc National Park, Vernet les Bains, St Pierre de la Mer, Uzes, Carcassonne, Prades, Pezenas, Montpellier

Port Vendres

Port Vendres a Mediterranean seaside village, is just south of Collioure and before the spanish border. Their promenade is lined with palm trees and restaurants. The village is not as large as Collioure and you do not see all the tourists with cameras. Commercial fishing boats share the harbor with luxury sail boats while they unload their fish. The atmosphere is very relaxed and you can spend an afternoon relaxing in the sun, drinking a glass of Banyuls wine and enjoying the ocean breeze.

Vacation Rentals in Southern France:
Perpignan, Haut Languedoc National Park, Vernet les Bains, St Pierre de la Mer

Collioure

About an half and hour south of Perpignan is Collioure. It is set on the Mediterranean coast just before the Spanish border. Mountains frame it on one side and the ocean on the other. As you walk into the village the smell of the ocean sweeps over you with cool gusts and the scent of the wind changes to fish. Although many tourists flock to Colioure it retains a very french presence. Restaurants line the shoreline and are packed the French dining and enjoying their wine. The clouds fall over the mountains giving the shore a dramatic effect.

The main attraction are the 13th century fortresses and 17th century church that are placed dramatically against the ocean.

Collioure was made famous by Matisse and Picasso who loved the play of light against the village. The colors seemed enhanced as the sun breaks through the clouds and dances across the village. The village is known as where Fauvism originated.

Wine Tasting and the Vendage St Martin de Fenouillet

This week is the vendage or wine harvest. Each village has their own vineyards, their own wines and caves. As you walk through the villages you can smell the wine being processed; a strong aroma comes from the caves. Most of the harvest is over and the grapes are currently being prepared.

Yesterday on a whim I drove to St Martin Fenouillet, another small village, to visit the village auberge. While there, Bridget who manages the auberge, offered to take us on a tour of the local wineries. There are three wineries in the village. Domaine Laguerre, Domaine Salvat, and Domaine Soula. Domaine Laguerre is currently being filmed by a British company to highlight their biological approach to making wines. Domaine Soula is owned by Domaine Gauby, who is developing quite a name in this region . So there exists quite a bit of rivalry between the two wineries. We arrived at Soula to see if we could get a tour. Up until that point, I did not know Soula was owned by Domaine Gauby and as we walked past a truck loaded with grapes down into a cellar with all it's machines working. I thought they were sharing cellars or something. I kept snapping photos until some guy down in the cellar said he did not want his photo taken.

A bit later, Bridgette arranged a wine tasting to go with the lunch her husband was going to prepare. And I was surprised to see the man in the cellar who did not want his photo taken. He had brought some wine from Soula to taste. It was a white wine called Trizone. It had a dry sharp taste and it was their first white wine made in 2004. The grapes were 80% Caringnan and 20% Grenache grapes. The caringnan grapes gave it a sharp and spicy taste.

Bridgette husband, Husein is the cook for the auberge and made a delicious meal. The salad was a typical green salad with pecans but it was topped with goat cheese wrapped in a honey flavored phylo that had been deep fried. For the main entree was pasta drenched in garlic and basil with mussels, squid, and shrimp. Delicious. Probably the best meal I have had so far.

Later that day, I learned that Soula is owned by Gauby. Their red wine was not enjoyable but their 2004 Trizone was good.

Perpignan France

Perpignan is a robust city that is totally involved in the current century. It is not a tourist town and it's citizens seem almost oblivious to it's history. The Tet river sits at the edge of the town and Quays or Canals flow through the historic area of the city. Along the quays are huge plane trees that arch gracefully over the canals that weave through out the city providing an shady respite.

In the midst of the hustle and bustle of the city sits a beautiful garden. The garden has beautiful memorials and sculptures; Square Bir Hakeim.


The major monument in Perpignan is the Mallorca Palais. The red brick and it's massive military form is very dramatic. As you walk up to the Palais, you cannot view the actual castle because it has a huge base the raises out of view from the sidewalk. You must climb a series of steps up towards the castle and the you view the garden and then entrance to the actual castle or palace as they prefer in Perpignan.

Vacation Rentals in Languedoc Roussillon Southern France:Perpignan, Haut Languedoc National Park, Vernet les Bains, St Pierre de la Mer, Uzes, Carcassonne, Prades, Pezenas, Montpellier

Perpignan and Palais of Mallorca

The southern part of Languedoc Roussillan has been the frontier between France and Spain and as such many battles were waged in the area. During the 13th century Mallorca extended their dominance inland and the King had a palace built in the city of Perpignan. The Mallorca realm was shortlived; ending in 1349. The region then became a part of the Kingdom of Aragon. The actual palace cannot be seen from the ground as it is built upon a huge raised earthen platform enclosed by bricks. The platform seems very ordinary and you must climb a staircase to reach the actual palace. When you finally reach the final level and view the palace, you will be impressed by it's bold and dramatic appearance. The arches have red marble from Villefranche-de-Conflent and white and blue marble from Ceret. Surrounding the palace is a garden with ancient statues.

Vacation Rentals in Languedoc Roussillon Southern France:Perpignan, Haut Languedoc National Park, Vernet les Bains, St Pierre de la Mer, Uzes, Carcassonne, Prades, Pezenas, Montpellier

Fenouillet Languedoc

I am sitting in a bar because where I am staying does not have a computer and this is the first one I have found.

From Montpellier to Perpignan the roads are surrounded by vineyards. Everywhere there are vineyards. D117 is a road that goes west from Perpignan and is considered one of the major wine trails. Estagel, Maury, St Paul Fenouillet all of these villages have wineries and tasting rooms. There are still a few vineyards that are harvesting the grapes. The sweeter wines have a later harvest to let the grapes retain more sugar.


I am a bit off the wine trail further in the mountains. In fact, every evening as I drive back to my rental I pass two ancient cather castles ruins that are perched high up in the mountains. The gite, where I am staying, has been renovated from a ruin. Perhaps even of similar age as the castle. At least that is what the owner believes ; since they are in such close proximity of the castle.

The climate is very arid here. The hills are covered with scrubby plants. On Sunday I went to a garden in Pontella, Jardin Exotic. The most dramatic plants were their palms, succulent and cactus.