The Glitz and Glamour of Lake Como

Ah Como Bella Como

Lake Como is considered one of the diamonds in a tiara of lakes found approximately 30 miles north of Milan. The deepest lake in Europe, it rests between the granite mountains of the lower Alps, with its three fingers extending between the mountains as they rise up to the sky.

For centuries, aristocratic Italians and wealthy families have mingled at Lake Como, enjoying the temperate climate and the gorgeous scenery that enhances the presentation of their villas and, at the same time, their social standing. Even the ancient Romans built villas here. Pliny the Elder, (23 A.D.–79 A.D.), a famous historian and writer, had a villa in Como. Pliny the Younger (61 A.D.–112 A.D.), a famous military officer and statesman who chronicled the existing Roman legal system in a series of letters to his friends and associates, built two villas here. In the 1400s, Leonardo da Vinci visited Bellagio and Lake Como. Napoleon visited his Grand Chancellor of the Napoleonic Kingdom of Italy, Francesco Melzi d’Eril, at Villa Melzi in Bellagio.

One of the prettiest villages on Lake Como’s shore is Bellagio. The village rests on a promontory that extends into the center of the lake with a view from all sides; it seems to keep a sleepy watch. The road to Bellagio begins at the town of Como and weaves up the peninsula, coming to an end at the village. It is chiseled out of the sides of the mountains at 90-degree angles, and as you drive through the mountains, you wish that you were reincarnated as a mountain goat—it would be much easier to navigate the roads.

Today, Bellagio is a small village, with cobbled streets that favor foot traffic. The narrow sidewalks angle upwards into the hills and form the center of the town. The main promenade stretches along the waterfront, with the exclusive hotels and quaint cafes facing out towards the lake. A perfect afternoon can be spent sitting at one of the cafes with a good book, enjoying the sun.

Huge ferries dock at Bellagio every few minutes, with different itineraries depending on which village you want to visit that day. The easiest way to get around the lake is by taking the ferries to the various villages, which means that you can avoid navigating the winding trails they call roads. The ferries churn the waters all day long, unloading the tourists. There are car ferries that can take you to Menaggio, where you can then drive to Lugano in Switzerland, or enjoy a leisurely afternoon visiting the villages along the other shoreline for lunch. Then there are the hydrofoil ferries that make numerous stops up and down the lake. It’s not difficult to find the ferries or the stands that sell the tickets; they are located at the shoreline for each of the villages.

Lake Como is well known for the luxurious villas and gardens that are scattered around its shores. The Versace family, George Clooney and Richard Branson all have villas here. But theirs aren’t the ones you’ll want to explore. With Lake Como’s illustrious history, several villas still remain that offer a glance backward into another era. Today these villas and their gardens are maintained as museums and are the major attractions around the lake.

Villa Balbianello
One of the most unique (and also one of the oldest) villas on Lake Como is Villa Balbianello, located in Lenno, built on the site of an old monastery by Cardinal Angelo Maria Durini during the late 1700s. The cardinal tried to incorporate elements of the monastery into the design of his villa. Today, the villa is a living monument to the life of Count Guido Monzino, an Italian explorer who bought the villa in 1974. Monzino was the first Italian to climb Mount Everest; his explorations took him to every continent in the world. In the villa, he created elaborate displays of his collections from his travels. Some rooms are filled with indigenous art from the Incas of South America to the art of the Eskimos at the North Pole. Being an Italian did not prevent him from collecting elaborate French antique furniture from the 1700s or paintings by English artists who practiced the beautiful art of reverse painting on glass. Surrounding the villa are intricate gardens designed to grace the slopes of the hills as they reach down to the lake.

Villa Carlotta
Just down the road in Tremezzo is Villa Carlotta; built by the Clerici, an aristocratic family from Lombardy in the late 18th century, and later purchased by a Prussian princess. The villa has a rather imposing presence as it stretches along the border of the lake. But if you like gardens, Villa Carlotta has about 20 acres of them. Stepping inside the gates, you’re surrounded by private enclave of camellias. The main entrance is a typical formal Italian garden with an enchanting 18th-century fountain of a cherub and dolphin. A series of terraces and staircases extend upward the villa. As you walk toward the gardens, you’re enveloped by a sense of serenity and peace. The gardens seem to extend forever; long expanses of green lawn are lined with exotic and tropical plants. The climate around Lake Como is very conducive to a variety of gardens because the temperature very seldom drops below freezing, so many of the plants collected at Villa Carlotta have been there for centuries. Tropical palms, redwood trees, azaleas, rhododendron and fern grottos are all part of the gardens.

Other Villas
There are many villas to visit at Lake Como: Villa Cipressi and Villa Monastero in Varenna, Villa Melzi and Villa Serbelloni in Bellagio, Villa Carlotta in Tremezzo, Villa Balbianello in Lenno, and Villa Pizzo and Villa d’Este in Cernobbio. Each day, take the hydrofoil from Bellagio to a different village, visit the villas, enjoy lunch, and then catch the last ferry back to Bellagio.
When you leave Bellagio, take a car ferry to the other side of the lake, and drive back along the opposite shore. The ride is more enjoyable.

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Wines of Southern France Banyuls, Maury

Collioure, Southern France – A small fishing village made famous by Matisse and Picasso

In southern France, just before the Spanish border, the grey granite of the Pyrenees Mountains drops dramatically down to the Mediterranean Sea. Natural harbors hug the shores with restaurants, palm trees, ancient fortresses, castles and palaces. Collioure, a picturesque village, is framed between the ocean and mountains. The scent of fish envelopes you as you descend towards the beach and wonderful restaurants.

Collioure has dramatic architecture along its shores; the 12th century Royal Palace built as a summer residence by the King of Majorca and the 17th century Church of Notre-Dame-des-Anges. For many centuries it remained a fishing village but in the early 1900’s Matisse and Picasso “discovered” Collioure and spent many years painting the beautiful landscape and trading their painting with the owner of Templar Hotel in exchange for a place to stay. Fauvism was born and the town grew in popularity.

Today, the village of Collioure has created the Fauvism Trail, where you can trace the footsteps of Picasso and Matisse and see why they fell in love in with this beautiful village.

The village of Collioure is within the AOC region, appellation d'origine controlle, of Collioure, Banyuls and Banyuls Grand Cru. Those AOC regions are combined in the four villages of Collioure, Port Vendres, Banyuls Sur Mer, and Cerberus. Wines that fall within the AOC must adhere to certain quality standards; the wine is usually a mixture of a specific types of grapes, the type of grape used in the wine is defined, along with a minimum and maximum percentage of a specific mixture of grapes for the wine. The fields must fall within a certain geographic area; the maximum number of vines planted per acre is defined along with the maximum yield per acre.

In spite of the fact that the AOC Collioure , AOC Banyuls and AOC Banyuls Grand Cru encompass the same villages, their wines are very different. AOC Collioure focuses on red and rose wines. However, the Banyuls wines are a bit more complicated. They go through several unique processes. First they must pass through a process called “maceration” in which the grapes with their skins are allowed to soak in the juice for a period of time. Another process involved is “mutage”. This occurs when grape or brandy alcohol is added to the wine during the fermentation process. The alcohol stops the fermentation process, allowing the wine to retain its naturally sweet taste left from the grapes. The addition of the grape alcohol at the beginning of the fermentation process can create wines that have higher alcohol content, up to 20% by volume. Banyuls Grand Cru must be aged in wood for at least 30 months. The wines from Banyuls are also called “Vins du Natural” which is a term for a sweet wine.

Roussillon France – Home of Cathar ghosts and Maury wine
For centuries, the Roussillon region of France, was considered the hinterland of France. Fortresses were built during the 11th and 12th centuries in strategic positions scattered in a hop scotch pattern across the very top of the mountain ridges between Perpignan to Carcassone. This was an area in which the border was always being redefined. One century it was owned by Spain, the next by France. These French castles were designed to maximize their view over the surrounding valley an in effort to prevent the Kings of Spain from expanding their realm of influence.

During the 12th century, the castles took on a different significance. The Cathars, a Gnostic religion, were gaining a strong influence in the southern region of France. The nobility in this area felt more of an allegiance to the Cathars, who they considered people of their land rather than the remote religious leader of the Pope. They offered their castles and fortresses as a refuge in what became the last stronghold for the Cathars. As the Pope grew incensed at what he considered the heresy of the Cathars, crusades were instigated with the sole determination of destroying the Cathars. Because the nobility protected the Cathars and their families within the castle walls, their fortresses became the focal point of major battles in which the Pope tried to rid France of the Cathars. They were massacred and burned at the stake and when that did not destroy every remnant of their religion, the Inquisition was launched. Eventually the Cathars were eliminated. Today those ancient ruins survived the battles and the passage of time; appear as ghosts, sitting silently atop of the mountains. They poke their heads through the clouds while you drive through one of the major wine producing regions in France. On the highest points of these mountains overlooking the wine valleys, you can catch a glimpse of the “Cathar Castles” as they continue to keep watch, as they have for centuries.

One of the major wine trails and Cathar castle routes in this section of southern France is found along the D117 road that runs from Perpignan and continues west through a valley framed on either side by mountains. Chalk and clay form the soil for the vineyards that are scattered between the wild brush that forms the landscape in this agricultural region. The majority of the wine in this area is Rivesaltes AOC; however, Maury wine is a small appellation that has chiseled out a section of land in the midst of the AOC Rivesaltes.


Maury wines are the only wines in this region that are allowed to produce a sweet wine. There have been comparisons of the Maury wine to a port. But the wines I tasted at Mas Amiel, the largest independent producer in Maury, tasted more like the ice wine produced in Canada. Some of their wines had a bit of a tartness added to the sweet flavor. They did not have the heavier taste associated with a port. Mas Amiel has a huge estate surrounding the town of Maury. Signs along the road point towards their vineyards and “gustation” or wine tasting rooms. As you drive through the valley you see their logo, MA etched into the side of the mountain. Surrounding their tasting rooms are “bonbonne” bottles filled with wine that is going through the initial fermentation process. The Maury wines are another type of fortified wine and there are several versions of the wine depending on the length of the wine in the barrels. Although some of the older wines have a heavier texture that can be compared to port, the younger wines while still sweet are lighter in taste. Everyone always says the Maury wines are the perfect dessert wine, and perfect to go with Chocolate. But I find that they would also be enjoyable as an aperitif. You are not going to sit down and drink several glasses of this wine, but rather you are going to slip slowly and enjoy the exquisite and unique taste of a delightful wine.

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When the Romans invaded France

The Pont du Gard – When the Romans invaded France

During the height of the Roman Empire, from the 1st century BC to 1st century AD, its territories extended through out France. Engineering marvels, that helped extend their control over these foreign lands, are now in ruins and scattered across the landscape in the Gard department of Southern France. One of the most majestic structures is the Pont du Gard, an aqueduct that channeled water from the Eure River near Uzes, across the Gardon River down to the south and the town of Nimes.

Today, the Pont du Gard sits majestically stretched over the Gardon River, like a beautiful piece of sculpture. It is surrounded by a natural environment, forests on either side, the river flowing beneath its limestone arches and the sun turning the aqueduct into a beautiful warm ochre color. Three tiers of arches create one of the tallest pieces of Roman architecture in France and the slight angle that has been created to provide momentum to the water, give the bridge a lopsided appearance. Ancient olive trees, hundreds of years old, are entrenched near the foot of the perfectly engineered arches that form the centuries old bridge. The white pebble riverbed cuts a wide path through the rugged forest weaving like a snake down to the villages below, allowing the passage of its precious cargo, water.

The Camargue, St Aigues Mortes, and Listel, a historic winery

In the Gard department there are two main regions of wine; the Costeries de Nimes and Vin de Pays des Sable du Golfe du Lion. The prevalent wine of both of these regions is a rose wine. The rose wines seem to flourish in the hot humid climate and the sandy soils that is typical of the Camargue, a salt marsh area south of Nimes and Uzes, that runs parallel to the Mediterranean coast.
The Camargue is a series flat coastal marshes, surrounded by fresh water channels that forms a natural environment that is home to pink flamingoes and wild horses. Aigues Mortes is an ancient village in the Petite Camargue surrounded by medieval walls built during the 1200’s. During the first week in October, in preparation for the running of the bulls, the village gets loud. Rock bands play in the center downtown waiting for the release of the bulls inside the city walls. The town is also the setting for “The Garden of Eden” written by Ernest Hemingway.

The major independent wine producer in this area is Listel. Established in 1883, they were one of the few vineyards that survived the Phylloxera fungus that decimated France in the late 1800’s. It was the eco climate of the Camargue and the periodic flooding of salt marshes that prevented the fungus from being established on the Listel vines. Today Listel produces 80% of the Rose wines from the Camargue on their 5,000 acre domain and is very proud that their vines do not have any American rootstock.

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Chateau St Privat - A historical garden in Southern France

Last October, I spent my last week in Southern France exploring the cities of the Gard Department. The city of Nimes where there are numerous historic Roman sites. Uzes, the First Duchy in France. And the Pont du Gard, an aqueduct that is considered to be one of the tallest pieces of roman architecture. But my love of gardens caused me to search out any mention of beautiful villas and gardens that would be available for viewing while in this area. The dry Mediterranean climate of southern part of France is not always conducive to ornate gardens. But I found one. A private villa and garden located in the vicinity of the Pont du Gard. There were only a few references to the castle, Chateau St Privat, on the internet. So, when I arrived at Uzes, I called and made an appointment to visit the castle.

When I entered the castle, I was met immediately by a small bird like woman with red hair and hard piercing eyes. She paced the floor, impatiently waiting for me.

“How did you find out about my chateau?” she demands as she stares directly into my eyes.

“I was doing research on the internet about the gardens of Southern France and saw mention of Chateau St Privat.”

I continue with my explanation about how I had found information regarding her garden on the internet and then visited the Pont du Gard making inquiries at the tourist office. The tourism office had finally provided me with the information on how to contact her for permission to visit the gardens.

“Of course: the internet.” She says and seems satisfied and turns away.

“Come with me!” She commands and disappears through the castle hallways.

Our destination is a long garden room with elaborate wrought iron doors that open onto the 1st terrace of the gardens. The afternoon sun brightens and warms the room. Red Persian carpets, yellow Louis XV furniture and red marble tables fill the room. The walls are covered with ornate hand carved wooden paneling. In spite of the French antiques, the room feels lived in. Off to one side is a wicker chair, tilted upside down while it is being mended. Papers are scattered on top of the tables and a small Westie terrier runs in circles around my feet.

The wrought iron doors open onto an enormous terraced garden. The park like setting of the upper terrace extends outward with an unobstructed view of a large grey statute of Neptune reclining in the middle of a pond. Ancient yew and cypress trees form a backdrop with a canopy that perfectly frames Neptune. Along the perimeter of the upper garden are a series of statues gazing back towards the castle and Neptune. Their origins seem almost lost in history as many aspect of the garden date back to the 1600s.

As we walk through the garden, Madame Fenwick begins to tell me about her childhood and growing up at the castle with her grandfather.

“When I was a child, the castle, the surrounding acreage and vineyard were a part of our country estate. Our main residence was located in Paris, but we would visit during holidays and the summer. My grandfather, who was Director of the Paris Opera, would invite the artists and musicians from the opera to come to the castle to enjoy a break from the city.”

Her grandfather, Jacques Rouché, had married into one of the oldest French perfume families, JT Piver. In 1896, he became the Administrator for the perfume company and patented Amyl salicylate, the first synthesized aroma chemical. He was also one of the driving forces behind the push to make the JT Piver name an international brand. After his success in the perfume business, he became Director of the Paris Opera. His dedication to rejuvenating the floundering Paris Opera caused him to become known as “The man who saved the Paris Opera.” He remained the Director from 1914 to 1944.

As I glance back towards the castle, the wrought iron doors almost disappear into the massive facade of the chateau. They are no longer the main focal point, rather the castle with its huge ochre colored exterior and towers now command all the attention. Even Neptune fades to an inconsequential dot in the landscape. No sounds erupt except for the singing of the birds. Off to the far right, the Gardon River forms a border along the edge of the gardens and it snakes its way through the forest. Occasionally you catch a glimpse of kayakers as they float down the river.

We descend to the lower garden through a series of stairs. The sidewalk extends perpendicular to the retaining wall leading away from the castle to the farthest point in the garden; where the greenhouse and a tall ornate fountain meet to form the border of the property. Urns with red geraniums create a border along the sidewalk leading to the rear of the garden.

Madame Fenwick and I climb the stairs back to the upper level of the garden. She returns to the castle while I remain to take photos. After several minutes, she returns and asks if I would enjoy viewing the interior of the castle.

The castle sits on the site of an ancient roman villa. Its Roman connection has always been maintained through the centuries. Three km from the castle is the Pont du Gard, an ancient roman aqueduct that is registered as a Unesco world heritage site. Throughout the ages, the aqueduct and the chateau were owned and maintained by the same family. However, the cost for the maintenance of the aqueduct became unmanageable and eventually, in the early 1900’s, the aqueduct was sold to the French government.

The most famous room in the castle is where Richelieu signed the Peace Treaty of Ales in 1629. In the center of the room is a massive hand carved wooden table and chairs with leather backing that has been passed down through the centuries to each successive owner. On the wall is a portrait of King Louis XIII of France. Richelieu was considered the first Prime Minister of France and helped Louis XIII consolidate his power during the 17th century. The walls of the room are painted a dark blood red. The wooden slate ceiling is very typical of French castles during this period.

For over 400 years the castle was the owned by the noble Faret family. They were one of many Protestants who inhabited this region. The growing influence of Protestants along with the Huguenots antagonized the Catholic population resulting in series of wars that attempted to prevent the Protestant religion from gaining prominence. Chateau St. Privat was the site where the Peace of Ales was signed in 1629 between Richelieu and the Protestants. The treaty granted religious tolerance to the Protestants.

As we near the end of the tour, Madame Fenwick steps into a small modern sitting room with a miniature refrigerator and offers me a chair. She opens a bottle of French Rose wine and pours us both, a glass. As we relax, she continues talking about her grandfather and her friends, the Duchess of Uzes and Viscount of Mogere. She drapes herself in a in a reclining position, with her arm draped over the back of the upright chair and her legs point outward at an angle. At first I stare, wondering what she is doing. Then I realize; she is posing like the old fashioned movie stars; gracefully draping them self over chair.

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Lucca, Florence, Chianti - Tuscany Gardens

I am in the process of planning my next trip to Italy. The trip will focus on researching more gardens in Tuscany. Major towns are Lucca, Florence and then the Chianti region. Gardens became a big deal during the Renaissance in Italy and Lucca and Florence were major towns were there was an upper class that could afford creating these gardens. So as part of my planning and research about Italian Gardens I have selected a series of books by Umberto Eco. He is an Italian professor who writes a variety of books. The Name of the Rose, The Aesthetics of Thomas Aquinas, and the History of Beauty. I selected these books to get an understanding about the history of Italian Culture.

The book, "The Name of the Rose" is set in a monastary during the Middle Ages. It is a murder mystery which makes it a bit more interesting. But it is very detailed about the life back in that era. The monks were actually some of the most wealthy citizens. Sometimes there were 2-3 or more servants for each monk. Talk about the austere life.

I also acquired a first edition set of " A History of Garden Art" by Marie Gothein that details the evolution of gardens from Ancient Egypt through modern English Gardens.

Gives me plenty of research information about each country.
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'What you need to know to have a great vacation in Europe'

1 -Notify your bank that you will be out of the country.
Let them know that you will be on vacation in a specific country and the actual dates. Sometimes a bank will flag international charges as suspicious. You could be having the time of your life in France; when you try to pay a restaurant bill with your credit card and have the card declined. So be sure to notify your bank.
2 – Exchange Rates.
The best exchange rates can be found through your credit card. Many people think that you should purchase your currency from a local bank before you travel. Or they exchange their USD at the airport. But usually these places charge some of the highest exchange rates and you are not getting a good value. Instead, just use your credit card. You can always get a cash advance from an ATM in Europe or pay for your purchases direct on your Visa.
3 – Research your hotel before making a reservation.
Hotel websites can be misleading; but you can get information from other travelers by reading the reviews on TripAdvisor.com. Some of their reviews will tell you exactly what they liked or did not like about the hotel.
4 - Where to dine.
Stay away from restaurants that have tour buses parked outside. It is best to find a restaurant that is patronized by the locals.
5 – Best time of year to travel.
Spring and autumn are considered the shoulder season. The rates in the hotels are less expensive. The cities are not choked with tourists. And the weather is cooler. The shoulder season is the best time to travel.
6 – Pack light.
Lugging a suitcase around is not fun. Pack items that can be easily hand washed and will dry easily. Limit your luggage.
7 – Travel Shoes.
Only take comfortable shoes to wear. You will do so much walking, visiting museums, villas, gardens, restaurants that you’re your feet can easily develop blisters if you do not have the proper footwear.
8 – Electrical Outlets.
European cities have a voltage that is almost twice the voltage in the USA. If you do not have a good adapter, you can burn up your equipment; whether it is a laptop or video camera. There are voltage adapters that you can purchase here in the USA. However, it is better to get one in Europe. Most major hotels will have a voltage adapter available for their clientele.
9 – Rent a car locally.
It is so much easier to see the sights when you rent a car. You can gain more of an exposure to the local culture and travel off the beaten path.
10 – Planning your trip.
Customize your trip to include destinations that emphasize one of your hobbies. You do not always need to see the main tourist attractions. What are your hobbies; wine, food, gardens, needlepoint or music? Try to find locales that specialize in one of your hobbies and can offer you a unique experience.
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